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No fancy bullshit, the Jääkäripuukko is simply a proper no-nonsense utility knife. These come in various sizes. Jääkäripuukko 110 is an excellent all-round knife for just about any tasks, it's best paired up with something bigger such as an axe or the Skrama. Quality carbon steel, traditional Finnish puukko blade profile with a slight drop point. The Jääkäripuukko is not designed to sit on a shelf for decoration, this is an honest tool made for hard work.
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No fancy bullshit, the Jääkäripuukko is simply a proper no-nonsense utility knife. These come in various sizes. Jääkäripuukko 110 is an excellent all-round knife for just about any tasks, it's best paired up with something bigger such as an axe or the Skrama. Quality carbon steel, traditional Finnish puukko blade profile with a slight drop point. The Jääkäripuukko is not designed to sit on a shelf for decoration, this is an honest tool made for hard work.
General features
- Medium size general purpose utility knife, a solid choice for most situations.
- Traditional puukko-style blade profile with drop point.
- High scandi-style grind with secondary microbevel.
- Spine ground and beveled to strike sparks from ferro rods.
- Full/stick hybrid tang with textured overmolded rubber grip.
- Protruding bare tang head with lanyard hole.
Technical specs
Specs | Metric | Imperial |
---|---|---|
Weight (knife only) | 175 g | 6.20 oz |
Total length | 240 mm | 9.4" |
Blade length | 110 mm | 4.3" |
Blade thickness | 4.20 mm | 0.17" |
Edge angle | 23° | |
Steel | 80CrV2, 59 HRC |
Blade
Traditional and proven functional Finnish puukko profile with a drop point. The thickness of 4,2 mm / 0.17" makes this a bit more robust than most old-timey traditional Finnish puukkos. The profile is a Scandi grind with a tiny secondary bevel, currently the most commonly used style in Finnish puukkos.
The strong blade can take a beating, you can use the Jääkäri for batoning without a problem, just don´t hit your fingers, unless yours are strong like steel.
80CrV2 carbon steel and heat treatment
All Terävä carbon steel knives are made from 80CrV2 tool steel, a trusted choice in Finnish knife manufacturing for decades. The heat treatment leaves the surface of the steel softer, ~52 HRC. This creates a tough exterior to protect the blade. As the blade is ground, the harder (~59 HRC) inside is revealed and improves edge retention. The spine has ground bevels for striking Ferro rods.
The blades have blemishes and stains due to the manufacturing process. These are harmless and can be removed if they bother you.
Care of a carbon steel blade
Carbon steel is easy to sharpen and maintain - you just have to remember to do it. If your knife gets wet in the bush, dry it the best you can. Never store the knife without drying and oiling the blade. Cooking oils are fine for this purpose.
Grip
The rubber grip is somewhat ergonomically shaped, but not one of those crazy finger groove things. A small finger guard on the front, a little belly in the middle, and a knob at the back to keep your hand from slipping and also make it possible to use a Leuku style chopping grip.
The tang runs all the way through the grip and comes out the back, forming a little knob with a hole in it for lanyards and such. The knob can also be used to hit things, naturally.
Choose the right sheath for you
The Terävä Jääkäripuukko can be carried on the belt, on a vest, or whichever way you may need. The materials are traditional leather and modern Boltaron.
Leather Sheath
The sturdy leather sheath hangs on a 6 cm / 2.35" belt loop and is built with a roomy plastic liner to let water and crud to run through it and out the hole at the end. When drawing the knife, the edge runs nicely between the two leather sides, not cutting it up as is a common downside of the traditional "sock" style puukko sheaths.
The sheath retains enough tension to keep the puukko in place even without closing the snap fastener, so around camp, you don´t need to be opening and closing the sheath all the time, just remember to snap it shut when you're on the move!
Do not force the knife out of the sheath without opening the press stud! Although this can be done it is not good for the press stud in the long run and may damage it. Just open the snap before pulling out the knife. It's best to oil the snap fastener once in a while to prevent it from becoming stiff and nasty.
The words "Right" and "Left" in the menu might confuse some folks, so let’s clarify it a bit. It refers to your dominant hand, not the side of your body. You pull your knife out of the "Right" sheath with your right hand (normal grip), no matter where the sheath is – left side, right side, or on the front. The "Left" sheath goes vice versa.
If, for some reason, you prefer to pull your knife e.g. with your right hand from the right side with your knuckles between your body and the knife handle, only then take the "Left" sheath so the blade edge will be facing forward. Simple!
Boltaron Sheath
Boltaron is a bit like Kydex but offers better performance in the extreme ends of use temperatures. This sheath allows carrying the knife on your belt, on the vest, pack, or anything with PALS webbing.
Suitable for RH and LH users and apart from military applications, these also work in outdoor and everyday use. The clips are sold separately.
A few words from the designer
The basic idea for the Jääkäri was very simple: to make a functional knife with all the pros and none of the cons of a traditional Finnish puukko. A traditional puukko is fine, but the rat tail tang, wooden grips and floppy sheaths are not exactly the most practical designs anymore. So we made the blade strong, 4 mm thick, and with a full tang that goes all the way through the grip. The handle is shaped for a good grip and made from rubber.
The basic leather sheath is nothing like it's wildly swinging ancestors, this one is made with a sturdy turning belt loop and a press stud to secure the knife in place.
This is not rocket science really, but just a simple good puukko for real use. Nothing fancy, works like a charm!
Stefan M.
Kierto Circular Economy
Return this product used but clean and unbroken, and you'll receive half of the product's original price as Varusteleka credits. Service is available only in Finland. Only Registered users can make Kierto returns. See more information about Kierto.
Varusteleka Terävä
All Terävä knives and leather sheaths are manufactured by Laurin Metalli, a family business and Finland's leading knife blade manufacturer from Kauhava with roots going back to 1918. The Boltaron sheaths are made by Savotta in Karstula, Finland. Founded in 1955, Savotta is known for its simplistic and extremely rugged, Nordic designs. A Terävä blade is Finnish craftsmanship, pure and simple! And "Terävä", that's just Finnish for "sharp". For further reading check out the Varusteleka's Terävä page.
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Reviews
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recommends
does not recommend
131 ratings



aleksi h. 05.08.2016 Verified purchase

Michael 25.08.2016 Verified purchase



Ole N. 26.09.2016 Verified purchase



Kenneth D. 15.12.2016 Verified purchase



Joni L. 23.12.2016 Verified purchase



Adam W. 24.01.2017 Verified purchase



Dustin C. 25.01.2017 Verified purchase

Gerhard S. 26.01.2017 ⚠ Unverified purchase
I like this knife!



Kristian L. 10.02.2017 Verified purchase
And for the leather sheath, that itself is worth the 60€ - All in all you get a hell of a lot of knife for this little money !


Comments
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you don't know how to sharpen your knives?
please respond and post a good visible picture. is the edge really blunt, means faulty grinded or "not that" sharp? i highly doubt they sent two times a faulty knife. its a simple scandigrind after all.
if its just not sooo sharp, it can be sharpened easily. it will need sharpening after some hours of use, no matter how sharp it is in the beginning. even diamond would loose its ability over time.
This is common now. Here is their reply to my same complaint (but they refused to send me a new knife)
Customer Service email: “The uneven tip(asymmetricity) comes from the speed of the manufacturing process and grinding the knives. Due to the fast speed and low price there usually is some more material on either side of the tip. Unlike one could think easily, it is not a defect and will not affect the usability nor the durability of the knife. This has always been the case with these knives.
Read all of the reviews. I had high hopes based upon reviews that were much older. Now these blades have serious issues with quality.
I contacted Varusteleka after I received the knife and saw the other issues in these reviews. Instead of trying to fix this as other reviewers stated, instead they said “we make them fast and cheap and this is to be expected.” They said I could return the knife and buy a new one, but there was no guarantee it wouldn’t be messed up too.
The entire quote front their email is at the bottom.
This is not right, unless there is zero attention to quality or craft. Buyer beware.
Customer Service email: “The uneven tip(asymmetricity) comes from the speed of the manufacturing process and grinding the knives. Due to the fast speed and low price there usually is some more material on either side of the tip. Unlike one could think easily, it is not a defect and will not affect the usability nor the durability of the knife. This has always been the case with these knives.”
That's awful, especially considering how outstanding they used to be regarding standing behind their knives.
I wondered how they could, at the same time, offer an amazing knife and sheath, at a low price, AND offer free replacements left and right for any kind of defects. Now we know- THEY CAN'T. Guess that generosity caught up with them. It's started giving Varusteleka, Terava, and Lauren Metalli a bad name... Looks like they've taken to hiring drunken hobos with zero experience to grind their knives.
Glad I got my jp110 and Skrama 240 before they went downhill :(
A decent oil stone of medium grit will eat away at the softer steel in no time. A few medium pressure passes on mine, and I was able to make the grind on the tip symmetrical... And I'm definitely no knife craftsman.
Im sure I could even out the primary grind's valleys and dips if I wanted to take the time to bother.
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